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To Tone or Not to Tone

Toners are not mandatory in a skincare regimen, but they can help remove any dirt, oil, or makeup left behind after cleansing. So why do toners even exist? Well historically, toners were used on the skin to restore the pH after cleansing. The pH balance of your skin is important for skin health. Oily skin can throw the skin’s pH off, making it more acidic. Traditional soaps are more alkaline to help remove oil so they can disrupt the skin’s normal pH. This is why toners were initially created—to eliminate oil or alkaline soap residue and to bring the skin’s pH back into its normal range.  However, most cleansers today are pH-balanced, so the initial role of a traditional toner isn’t really necessary anymore. 

Today’s toners are more purpose driven to help with various skin needs. They can help hydrate or remove dead skin cells and prepare your skin for serums or moisturizers to penetrate deeper into the skin and maximize their effectiveness. Modern toners are typically considered hydrating, exfoliating, or brightening. Toners that exfoliate the skin contain ingredients like glycolic acid or salicylic acid and are often a part of acne or anti-aging regimens. Hydrating toners can be beneficial to restore the skin’s moisture and usually contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid, vitamin E or rosewater. There are also toners dedicated to brightening the skin. They often contain vitamin C.  Just be careful not to hit your skin with a double whammy—if you use a toner with a retinoid or vitamin C, you may want to skip it as a serum or cream used in your routine. Some may tolerate double doses of antioxidants while others will not, and your skin will become red and irritated. If you have sensitive skin, it doesn’t mean you can’t do a toner. Sensitive skin types benefit from hydrating formulations and toners that are calming. Ingredients like niacinamide, chamomile and aloe vera can calm inflammation.

Not only have tone ingredients changed, but so have the vehicles  or how the toner’s active ingredients are delivered into the skin. In the skin world, vehicles include creams, ointments, lotions, gels, foams, powders and solutions. Vehicles can enhance penetration of active ingredients into the skin and can be designed to minimize irritation or offer additional benefits like moisturization. Most toners have a solution vehicle and liquid texture but some newer formulations might have a gel or lotion consistency. 

Now you might be wondering, is a toner and astringent (I can still smell the Sea Breeze) the same thing? No. Astringents are specific substances that draw water out of tissues, causing them to shrink. This gives the skin a tight feel. A toner might contain astringent ingredients but it doesn’t have to. In skin care, using astringent products after cleansing can temporarily tighten the skin, shrink pores, and remove oil. Common astringents are alcohol and witch hazel calamine, green and black tea. Astringents can be highly irritating to skin and may cause more inflammation. If you have acne, you might be tempted to treat with an astringent but simply drying the skin isn’t a good treatment approach.. In general, dermatologists tend to discourage the use of astringents unless someone has very oily skin and may suggest doing a test spot to see if the product is irritating to the skin.  

If you use a toner, add it to your skin regimen after your cleanse.  Add a few drops of toner to a cotton round (or your finger tips for a greener option) and rub it over your face, neck and chest. After using a toner, follow with a moisturizer and sunscreen. You can use your toner once or twice a day. Just be careful if your toner has some potentially irritating ingredients.  Personally, I love using a toner. Even though it’s not a requirement for healthy skin, I  enjoy toning as a part of my skin care regimen. I love that feeling of a clean slate before I start my skincare routine and I don’t mind the extra step and the relaxation it brings. 

Trotter’s Take: Toners today offer many skin benefits to replenish the skin and can be easily integrated into your regimen..  So, the answer To Tone or Not to Tone? It’s completely up to you!

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