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Hair Care is Skin Care

Believe it or not, but I’m sitting at my salon right now with my foils in and writing this blog. I don’t often share that I am a dermatologist when I go to get my hair done or want to unwind with a facial because it puts people on edge. However, I love talking with my hair artist, yes, that’s what she is in order to transform my fine locks into fabulousness! During my appointments we often talk about this disconnect between haircare and skincare and how people often think of them as completely different things. And I’m here to set the record straight—they’re not. Haircare is skincare!

Often, we are distracted by our hair and forget about the skin below. Haircare includes scalp care. The scalp is loaded with bacteria and fungi, and when these microoganisms are out of balance, it can cause problems such as itching, flaking, scalp acne, seborrheic dermatitis, eczema, or even hair loss. If your hair has thinned a little or if you’re balding, your scalp is skin is also more exposed to the elements, especially to the sun, and can be at risk for skin cancer.

When thinking about haircare, it’s important to prioritize it like skincare anywhere else on the body and develop a regimen to keep it healthy. Keep in mind that haircare products affect your skin and can sometimes lead to problems like irritation, allergy or acne. However, here are a few basic tips to help with establishing a good foundation for a hair and scalp care routine.

Shampooing

Shampoo is just for hair right? No! It’s made for your scalp too. Cleaning the scalp should be a part of your skincare routine. The frequency is based on your own unique hair needs. If you have an oily scalp or fine hair, you might want to wash daily but if you have dry, textured, curly, or thick hair, you may only need to shampoo every 2 to 3 weeks. Focus the shampoo on your scalp and use a gentle massaging motion to help remove build up and oil and open up the hair follicles. Allow the rest of the shampoo to run down your locks so it doesn’t dry your hair out too much. If you have dry scalp or damaged hair, avoid drying shampoos that contain sulfates. They can strip the scalp and hair from much needed moisture.

Conditioning

A conditioner is a great add to moisturize and detangle your hair. Detangling is important to make hair easier to manage so that it isn’t damage with combing or brushing. If you have fine or straight hair, a conditioner should be applied to the ends of the hair. However, if your hair is dry or curly, apply a conditioner to the entire length of your hair.

Moisturizing 

Yes, you should moisturize your scalp! Now this is a lot easier to do if you don’t have hair or sport a buzzed look. You can apply calp serums, lotions, and oils that can moisturize the scalp. If the area on the scalp is bald, I often tell patients to treat it just like their facial skin and use the same products in that area. It simplifies the process and makes it a part of their regular routine. For those who need a little extra moisture kick, rubbing oil into the scalp, also known as scalp oiling, might be a good solution.

Exfoliating 

Occasionally exfoliating the scalp can be beneficial to remove dirt, oil, hair products and unclog hair follicles. I often recommend exfoliating every 1-2 weeks. You can use an exfoliating brush or exfoliating shampoo with salicylic acid or a product designed to exfoliate the scalp directly. Brushing your hair daily can also remove flaking, redistribute oils and remove loose hairs. Just be sure not to overdo it. Over exfoliating can lead to more irritation especially in the setting of psoriasis or eczema on the scalp.

Sun Protection

Be sure to protect your scalp when you’re out in the sun. Sun exposure can damage the hair over time and can also increase your risk of skin cancer. Try wearing a scarf or hat and apply a broad spectrum sunscreen SPF 30 to exposed scalp skin and reapply at least every 2 hours. Sunscreen powders and sprays often work well for the scalp. For sunscreen sprays, I recommend to spray a little bit into your hand first, then dip your finger into the spray and then apply to the scalp. And lastly, be sure to check your scalp skin regularly and if you notice any concerning lesions, let your dermatologist know.

Trotter’s Take: Develop a hair and scalp routine that works for your own unique needs and if you have a scalp or hair issue, talk to your dermatologist.

Check out my podcast with Dr. Iris Rubin as we discuss the importance of caring for your hair and scalp

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