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Don’t Blame Coco but We’re Still Chasing the Tan

I can admit it. Even as a dermatologist I still like the idea of having that bronzed glow. I don’t go to the tanning bed or lay out in the sun but the desire to be a little bronzed is still there. I just get mine out of a bottle, like a Jergens, and yes, one day, I will splurge for the spray tan. 

Our Western obsession with being tan stems back to the of fashion icon Coco Chanel. While she gave us classic, timeless fashion, she also started the trend of tanned skin being the ultimate aesthetic. Back in 1923, Coco returned from holiday in the Mediterranean and photographers captured her back with a vacation glow. And that simple, innocent act is what set tanned skin as a Western cultural ideal.

We all know that ultraviolet light causes premature aging and skin cancer yet tanning remains culturally desirable. It begs the question, if we know tanning damages the skin, why do we still do it? Part of it is denial—I’ll never get skin cancer—the other part is the reward system. Feeling more beautiful in tanned skin or the perception that you look healthier with that glow. So many women in my office comment that they feel skinnier when they’re tan or feel like a tan camouflages imperfections like cellulite. But not everyone tans for the aesthetic aspect. One of my patients admitted than tanning was her meditation, time away from kids, work, the stressors of life. It was her “selfcare” or “me time.” When I convinced her to replace tanning for “me time” with a coffee break at Starbucks and a good book, it was a win. 

Society also associates tanned skin with good health, fitness, vacation, wealth, youthfulness and beauty. Think of how many gyms have tanning beds as a part of their services. You go to a gym to work out, become healthier and more fit. So, a tanning bed couldn’t be a bad thing if it’s there too, right? I mean it’s not like they have vending machines stocked with Cheetos, Twinkies or KitKats for you to indulge in. That would be ridiculous, huh? Catch the irony? 

The psychology around tanning is fascinating. If society thinks a tan is good, it makes sense that people tend to conform. When you look at Hollywood, social media or even friends and family, if they are tan, then it influences our decision to follow suit. And the kicker—reward and reinforcement. When someone says, “You look so tan!” or “That tan makes you look so rested,” the positive comments can lead to us wanting the bronzed look more. And there’s the added pressure of events like weddings or seasonal changes like vacation driving our desire to tan. 

Social media has contributed to the tanning craze as well. Filters and editing can make people appear tanner than they are or even normalize skin tones that aren’t realistic. The algorithm rewards dramatic before and after pictures which can frame tanning as a positive improvement and reinforce it as better or more beautiful than untanned skin. The real problem is that beauty trends can move quicker than public-health messaging and often the facts don’t engage like dramatic images or statements. 

Now add to it the social media tan-maxxing. Tan-maxxing is a viral trend revitalizing the tanning movement. If you aren’t on TikTok, then you probably haven’t heard of the concept of “maxxing.”  Maxxing is where you deliberatively optimize a particular aspect of your appearance. Tan-maxxing is the latest maxxing trend where people are maximizing their UV exposure to get as dark as a tan as possible. Using tools like the UV index or tanning oils and of course foregoing sunscreen, tan-maxxing has added a whole other element to the tanning craze. 

Another irony is that we tan to look better now, while accelerating the changes and sun damage we eventually spend a lot of money to reverse. The harsh reality is that you cannot reverse skin cancer. Yes, we can treat it, but skin cancer leaves scars, might have complications, and most importantly, can even cause death.

Trotter’s Take: I don’t hate on Coco Chanel. What I tell everyone is that you don’t have to give up the aesthetic goal—you can change the way you achieve it and still rock your Chanel.

Thinking about why you love laying out in the sun or chase tanned skin too? Then check out my podcast with Dr. Sherry Pagoto, as she walks us through the psychology of tanning. 

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