So we’ve all seen it—Korean beauty (K-beauty) or K-skincare as it’s often called, has taken the US by storm. But it’s not just the beauty scene that has made it to the world stage. You can also see K-pop culture, K-movies and K-dramas. I’ve watched the K-Pop Demon Hunters more than I’d care to admit on Netflix. And yes, Golden is an awesome song. Several of my staff have been sucked into the K-dramas. It’s only natural that the cultural influence of skincare has also been a part of the K-movement.
Did you know that South Korea has dethroned France as the biggest cosmetics exporter to the US?. South Korean cosmetic companies have time on their side and skincare products can be manufactured at lightning speed, typically within 3-6 months. In other parts of the world, the process often takes one to three years. This entrepreneurial environment encourages product innovation and development but also fierce competition. In 2024 over 8,800 K-cosmetic brands went out of business. Currently, it is estimated that there are around 27,000 cosmetic companies in South Korea. This competition fuels a billion dollar industry and keeps the cost of K-beauty skincare products in check.
But why is K-beauty so popular? The cost effectiveness plays a role but it goes much deeper than that. In South Korea, skincare is a way of life embedded in a culture of self-care. The beauty business is big in South Korea as well with companies vying for the best products to achieve skin perfection. And the public is often looking for the next best thing to chase flawless skin. Another reason K-beauty rose to the top is its focus on gentle formulations making their products attractive to a variety of skin types. K-beauty is also results driven with a foundation centered on prevention. While we often wait for skin changes to occur and then focus on fixing them, K-beauty is rooted in the philosophy that prevention is the best medicine. It’s not usual for someone in their 20s to start using a skincare routine to prevent wrinkling and we are seeing this trend more in the US. In South Korea, skin health is a part of overall health so taking care of your skin is as simple and necessary as brushing your teeth. If only I can get that mindset going here more robustly at home!
And how does K-beauty standout? Well, look at the ingredients… Bee venom serum, snail mucin, centella asiatica, green tea, mugwort and rice water just to name a few. This list might inspire a second take or if you’re my husband, remind you of Harry Potter. All kidding aside, K-beauty pulls ingredients from nature due to their potential skin benefits and combines them with names you might be more familiar with like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and ceramides. The FDA has scrutinized K-beauty ingredients due to the different regulations in South Korea vs the US. In addition, the FDA monitors these products to make sure that they follow cosmetic rules and refrain from making any medicinal claims.
One criticism of K-beauty is the lack of clinical studies supporting the effectiveness of certain products or ingredients. As a dermatologist, I am data driven, but I also understand the financial constraints of companies and can also accept that some ingredients may never get the research attention they deserve but that doesn’t automatically mean they lack efficacy. It may limit claims or come with my comment, “Although there isn’t robust evidence to support its effectiveness, I think there’s potential value in the ingredients.” Bottom line, the product isn’t likely to be harmful, but how much it helps might be hard to quantify and the user will be the judge of that. And most people trust their own judgement, often over sound evidence from a well-designed study.
Overall, I love K-beauty with the exception of the 10-step routine. It’s more of a practical concern than a critique. As a full-time dermatologist balancing family and side gigs, the K-beauty 10-step routine just isn’t practical for me. I don’t have the time or the energy for 10 steps, but the reality is you don’t have to. A K-beauty 10-step routine typically includes starting with a double cleanse 1. Oil cleanser 2. Water based cleaner followed by 3. Exfoliator 4. Toner 5. Essence 6. Serum 7. Sheet mask 8. Eye cream 9. Moisturizer 10. Sunscreen. The good news is that you can choose which elements of the routine fit your skin’s needs and follow that. Some might do the 10-step routine all the time or in advance of a major event like a wedding. One day, I will trial the 10-step routine to see what all the rage is about.
Trotter’s Take: K-beauty may have started as a trend, but its unique ingredients, reasonable price point and overall results make it a keeper for skincare. Hungry to nourish your skin? Take a listen to my podcast with Dr. Lily Park and her overview of K-beauty.
